Phnom Penh – the capital and most populous city in Cambodia does not have a very good reputation among travelers.
Many even skip the capital and go straight to cities like Siem Reap, Kampot, or Island of Koh Rong Sanloem.

Is it a good thing to skip Phnom Penh?

Well… not really!

Although Phnom Penh is big, noisy, dirty and sometimes overwhelming, it is not worth skipping it when traveling in Cambodia. If only to see for yourself what Phnom Penh has to offer.

In this article you will learn about places worth visiting during your trip to Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh.

Our feelings about the capital before arriving were quite mixed. Many of the people we met on our way during our trip around Southeast Asia was not found of the capitol.

This did not discourage us, and we decided to find out firsthand what really scares travelers away from this city.

And although Phnom Penh is not our favorite capital in Southeast Asia, we still think that to be in Cambodia and not see the capital at least for a few days would be a bad decision.

#1 Tuol Sleng Prison Museum S-21

It’s hard to know the real Cambodia without knowing its history, even if it is brutal and bloody.

Tuol Sleng Prison Museum is definitely not an easy place to visit, but if you’re in the capital, you can’t miss it!

At the museum, you’ll learn about the horrifying history of Cambodia, which took place quite recently. Because in 1975, when the Khmer Rouge – the Communist Party of Kampuchea headed by Pol Pot, who wanted to brutally change Cambodia – came to power.

With lies and promises to rebuild the country, the communists attract Cambodian students, who were studing abroad. When they arrive in Cambodia they were captured and transported to Security Prison 21 Tuol Sleng, abbreviated S-21.

A place that once was a high school, but under Khmer Rouge rule it becomes a place of torture and extortion of false confessions in which prisoners confessed to such absurd acts as spying for the CIA.

They were capturing and torturing anyone with a higher education, anyone who can speak a foreign language, as well a people with glasses because, according to the Khmer Rouge, this was synonymous with knowledge.

The communists hated educated people, they wanted everyone to be equal. They proclaimed 1975 as Year Zero. They put great emphasis on communal work and farming, wanting to increase rice cultivation three times, forcing people displaced from the cities to work hard, on incredibly small food rations.

It is estimated that during the reign of the Khmer Rouge, one in four Cambodians dies. Often from exhaustion, disease and starvation.

Prisoners in S-21 were also members of the Khmer Rouge accused of espionage, doctors, artists, teachers, soldiers accused of betraying the party.

The school was surrounded by barbed wire and classrooms were converted into small cells where prisoners were chained to hooks in the floor by their legs, using metal bars.

Most of the prisoners lived in prison for about three months. They were tortured and received practically no food at all. Their torment ended when they signed the false confessions they were forced to write and were transported to Killing Fields.

It costs $5 to enter the museum, and you’ll pay an additional $5 for an audio guide, which is necessary to learn the exact history of the place and even the stories of a few survivors.

#2 Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

After visiting the S-21  museum, visit also the Killing Fields – Choeung Ek.

Choeung Ek is the place where prisoners from Tuol Sleng were taken and murdered in the most horrible way.

Those who were deported to Killing Fields had no chance to survive.

Trucks with prisoners arrived several times a month, and at the end of the Khmer Rouge rule, even every day. There were several dozen people in each truck.

In some of the mass graves the remains of 300-400 people were found. The exhausted prisoners dug their graves, so they were very shallow, as the people had no power to do anything.

Whole families were murdered. Fathers, mothers, children.
There is a place there that breaks the heart. It is a tree against which the skulls of infants were smashed. Often before the eyes of mothers. It is a horrifying place.

The babies’ bodies were thrown into a nearby mass grave.
The tree is full of hanging bracelets left by visitors who were praying for the babies’ which died here.

Adults were killed in an equally horrible way, with hoes, spades, axes, metal pry bars. The bullets were too expensive.

To drown out the screams of the murdered people, on one of the trees hung a loudspeaker that played a terrifying song, it was the last thing the murdered people heard before they died.

In the middle of this place stands a Buddhist Stupa, on its fifteen floors are the remains, mostly the skulls of the five thousand people murdered in these fields.

Choeung Ek near Phnom Penh, were not the only Killing Field in Cambodia. The remains of 17,000 people were found in mass graves all around country.

The Killing Fields near Phnom Penh are located slightly outside the city. You can get there with the help of a local Tuk Tuk, for as little as $5 one way.

Entrance including audio guide costs $6 per person. There are several boards to read, also in English.

#3 River Walk

River Walk is a place frequented especially by locals.

They like to spend time here, visit the nearby small tempels, deposit flowers there, which they bought from florists selling beautifully arrange small bouquets right in front of the tempel.

Locals also buy grains, which they then happily feed to the pigeons. Or they just walk around, eating and drinking the drinks sold every few meters.

River Walk overlooks the river on one side and The Royal Palace on the other.

#4 Central Market

One of the most recognizable buildings in Phnon Penh is the yellow Central Market building.

But the market extends far beyond the building, and it’s here that you’ll find the most stalls selling an amazing array of clothes, shoes, handbags and even jewelry.

While unfortunately most are fakes that you can’t take home, you will also find places selling things made in Cambodia.

Remember, however, when buying jewellry, not to buy anything made of ivory, as well as accessories made of crocodile.

Once you enter the market, ask the locals which way to street food and go for delicious and cheap food, or stock up on local fruits.

#5 Russian Market

Although this place is covered by many travel blogs, it’s hard to find tourists here. Russian Market is definitely dominated by locals, who buy here fresh products such as vegetables and fruits, as well as fish or meat.

Of course, there are also stalls selling clothes and accessories.

Those looking for street food will also find something, although most places are dominated by meat, so if you are vegetarian you might have some problems finding something for you here.

#6 240 Boutique Street

It is a relatively short street with several boutiques where you can buy unique souvenirs for yourself and your loved ones.

In addition to typical souvenirs you can buy here hand-sewn pillow cases, amazing paintings, or unique figurines.

If you are a fan of fashion, there are also several stores on this street with clothes made from fabrics produced in Cambodia and beautiful hand made jewelry.

Although the street is not one of the longest, you certainly won’t leave empty-handed. And in addition, you can be sure that the things you buy here are unique and made in Cambodia.

#7 Temple Wat Phnom Daun Penh

Wat Phnom is a charming temple in the center of the capital. Situated on an elevated hill you can get to by climbing a high stairs.

You’ll meet many locals and a few tourists at the site. And also amazing Great Hornbill birds which at first glance look scary, but are rather harmless if you keep your distance.

Be sure to go around the park, because on one side of the park is created a large clock on the grass, and there is an amazing view of the white stupa by the temple.

Entrance for foreigners costs $1.

#8 Independence Monument

The 37-meter monument was built in 1958 in honor of Kamboga’s independence from France.

Located on a traffic circle, its appearance is reminiscent of the lotus shaped stupa and swithin of Angkor, it looks best when admired from afar.

Right next to the monument is a large park, which during the day is completely empty, due to the fact that there is not an ounce of shade, while after sunset it is eagerly visited by locals. Many run around the park or perform other exercises.

#9 King Nordom Sihanouk Memorial

The memorial is located in the middle of the aforementioned park. It was built in honor of the king who contributed to the independence of Cambodia.

If you are traveling from the States or Europe, the capital will probably be your first stop in Cambodia. Check your airline connections to Cambodia.

If you are already in Asia, near the Cambodia border, chances are there is a bus to Phnom Penh from where you are now. Ask at your hotel about the connection.

Or check your bus connections to Phnom Penh .

We traveled from Koh Chang, Thailand by a small shuttle bus that was organized by the hotel where we slept.

The easiest, fastest and cheapest mode of transportation in Phnom Penh is Grab. Download the Grab app  and enjoy easy rides in the capital.

Second best app to use in Phnom Penh which will get you cheap Tuk Tuk rides is the Passapp . Unfortunately for this one you need to have a local Sim Card.

During our trip, we always try to stay overnight in well-located but cheap places.

In Phnom Penh we slept in two hotels: Suite Home Boutiqe Hotel  and Hotel Zing Phnom Penh  and both are worth recommending if you are looking for cheap and comfortable accommodation.

• Cambodia Bagels | Taste of NYC in Cambodia
• Planta | Amazing vegetarian food
• Masala | Tasty Indian food
• Big Easy | Affordable breakfast or lunch
• Pizza Company | Best pizza in town
• Moonlight Villa | Great breakfast choice
• Aroma | Delicious amazing Lebanese food

The best time to visit Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, is between November and May. However, remember that April and May are the hottest months in Cambodia and temperatures can reach 40 degrees Celsius.

The prices are per person, except for the accommodation and Tuk Tuk, which we rent for 2 people.

Accommodation: $16 – $24 / night

Snack: $1 – $2 / meal

Restaurant: $5 – $11 / meal

Pleasure: $1 – $3 / event

Tuk Tuk: $1 – $2 / ride

Activity: $5 – $9 / event